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THE SoC GRAND TOUR - Day 3
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At the time of writing we are now sat in the Outer Hebrides on the island of
Barra. This morning we left the B&B near Connel and went down into Oban
and parked up on the Corran Esplanade. This morning was our first visit,
albeit a brief visit to Lismore in Loch Linnhe. We got to the ferry terminal
and found the Eigg moving round to the slipway near the linkspan. The Isle
of Mull was absent, having left earlier for Craignure. There were no other
ferries around, other than Bruernish which has been at Oban acting as relief
ship for the Lismore and Kilchoan runs in the last few months.
While we waited for the ferry to get onto the slipway the lighthouse
service ship, Pharos was busy spinning around in the bay behind. A Lismore
crew member asked if we were for the ferry and said we could board - so we
did. We backed away from the slipway at 0845 with the car deck containing
seven passengers and two empty refuse cages. To say the Eigg sails slowly is
an understatement. We crossed Oban Bay in a few minutes and passed Maiden
Island before turning north towards Lismore. The visibility this morning was
not brilliant but it could have been worse; grey skies and the occasional
shower of drizzle which would last a few seconds at a time.
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Pharos turning off her berth in Oban
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Eigg moving round to the slipway
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Dave had one task to complete whilst on the sailing to
Lismore - the virtual crossing still needed doing for the website and Dave
was busy for the 50 minute passage taking photos of what can be seen from
the Eigg along the way. Alan meanwhile spent the crossing taking photos of
the internal areas on the Eigg for possible future use on a model. The
virtual tour photos will be available elsewhere on this site in the coming
weeks, as time dictates...
Along the way to Lismore there are views out across the
Firth of Lorn as well as up into Loch Etive towards the Connel Bridge in the
distance off to the right. As we drew near to the slipway and the old pier
on the left, the skipper turned the ship hard over and we swung round in a
tight left hand turn while another member of the crew came to the bow and
operated the single ramp.
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Bruernish lying at the spare berth
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The Eigg lying at Lismore slip
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Looking back towards the mainland
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As the ramp fell onto the slipway we disembarked for our
brief visit to the green island. We were scheduled to be there for ten
minutes, however Dave was very cautious about straying too far away from the
slipway. A handful of photos were taken on and around the slipway and old
pier before we returned to the ferry ready for the 0945 sailing back to
Oban. After the post was taken ashore and a wagon came on and took off the
refuse cages the engines were revved up once more and we backed away from
the slipway as the ramp was secured once again.
The remainder of the crossing to Oban seemed to drag on and
on. To Dave 50 minutes felt like 5 hours and at one point it looked like Al
had fallen asleep whilst leaning on the port side bulwark in front of the
bridge! There wasn't that much to see on the way back to Oban apart from the
sight of a distant Isle of Mull as she made her way out of the bay with the
1000 sailing across the Firth of Lorn to Craignure. Dave made use of his
350mm zoom once more but even so the photos of the Isle of Mull weren't
great with the dull morning and low cloud.
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Isle of Mull as seen from Eigg
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The view ahead
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Eigg leaving Oban with an extra sailing
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As we passed Maiden Island and then under Dunollie Castle
Dave couldn't wait to get of the ferry. The last 50 minutes went SO slowly.
Eigg took the wide approach around the Corran Ledge marker buoy and swung
left to make her final approach to the slipway. Once the ramp was down we
went up to the pier level as the crew prepared the ferry for an additional
sailing. The cargo this time was very different; a sludge lorry!
With the Eigg leaving the bay again Dave and Alan went round
to Dunollie Castle for a view over the firth. It was a great viewpoint and
would hopefully allow for some different photos other than those at ground
level. The path up to the castle was decidedly slippery given the rain from
the previous night - which of course meant for an interesting descent back
to the road.
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While waiting for the Isle of Mull to come back from
Craignure there was a lot of other activity going on, with yachts coming and
going all the time. Dave stayed up at the castle while Alan made the tricky
descent to the road. While this was happening the Isle of Mull was fast
approaching and the wind was getting up. Unfortunately this had the
inevitable effect of ensuring that in most of the photos Dave took from up
at the castle ruins there was at least one tree branch in the way!
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Isle of Mull approaching Oban
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Isle of Mull seen from above
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Once the Isle of Mull was past and out of sight at the pier,
Dave then negotiated the steep path back to the road (falling on his
backside twice but not letting on...until writing this!). Shortly we had to
go off round to the ferry queue as check-in time was approaching, but there
was just enough time to see Eigg coming back in and the Isle of Mull heading
out with the delayed 1200 run (delayed by over 25 minutes) before going back
to the car.
By the time we got to the terminal there was already a
lengthy queue forming for Clansman's 1340 run to Barra and Dave had to start
a new lane of traffic. The necessary registration slips were filled in and
the rover tickets were inspected yet again.
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Eigg passing Isle of Mull in Oban Bay
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The ferry was a little late in so once the car deck was
empty we were loaded almost straight away. Cars were put down the port side
while the three or four lorries were taken down the starboard side of the
car deck. Once upstairs the best place to be was outside as the weather was
improving and we were ready to swing round away from the linkspan. The ferry
was not exactly fully loaded!
We passed the Isle of Mull in the bay as she returned yet
again from Craignure. In the distance we could also see the Hebridean Isles
in the Sound of Kerrera, making her way in from Kennacraig and Colonsay.
Unfortunately she was running a few minutes late and was too far away to
catch on camera - even to the naked eye she was just a speck in the
distance.
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Clansman approaching
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Wednesday afternoons in the high summer season always mean
congestion in Oban, with Clansman, Isle of Mull, Hebridean Isles and Lord of
the Isles all using the Railway Pier within an hour and a half. As we headed
out towards Lismore lighthouse we also passed the Lord of the Isles on her
way in. She had passed round the south side of Lady Rock as we made our way
out through the channel between Lady Rock and Lismore light. As Lord of the
Isles approached Kerrera she circled in the firth as there were already two
large vessels in the confines of the bay and there was insufficient room for
the third.
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Lord of the Isles crossing the Firth of Lorn
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We continued out past Craignure and on up into the Sound of
Mull. As we approached the turn near Lochaline the Loch Fyne came out and
crossed in front of us. She was a couple of hundred yards away as we passed
by but good visibility meant Al was able to get some clear photos. Dave got
some pictures too but the lens was all smeary with some drizzle from
earlier.
After passing the Loch Fyne in mid-crossing we then passed
Fishnish off to the port side.
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Loch Fyne crossing to Fishnish
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Loch Fyne seen from Clansman
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The sailing up the Sound of Mull was very enjoyable as there
was warm sunshine and a light breeze. As we came to the turn off Salen Dave
went downstairs to get a bite to eat from the cafeteria while Al went up to
the observation lounge. As we approached Tobermory the captain over the
public address system and announced that a view of Tobermory Bay could be
seen off to port. Dave then found himself in a race to get to the best place
on deck for photos. It was unbelievable how rude other passengers were as
they barged through and pushed others aside. After snatching a couple of
rather poor pictures of Tobermory Bay in the sun Dave then left his fellow
passengers to push amongst themselves. We were at this point approaching the
path taken by the Loch Linnhe on her summer role as Kilchoan ferry. She was
nowhere to be seen off to port but a quick nosey round the starboard side
and she was spotted - far in the distance having just left the Ardnamurchan
slipway.
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Loch Linnhe crossing the Sound of Mull
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As the Loch Linnhe continued her slow journey across to
Tobermory the Clansman pressed on out of the Sound of Mull and round the
north western extremes of Mull. With Coll and Tiree off to the left and
Ardnamurchan, Muck and Eigg off to the right, the route out to Castlebay
would see another three hours sailing time ahead of us.
Unfortunately Dave would not see much of the remainder of
the passage as the lure of the reclining lounge proved too strong and the
seats were far too comfortable by half. The inevitable outcome was that Dave
caught about three hours sleep, and even slept right through the rough seas
off the south east coast of Barra...
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When we got to Castlebay the skies opened as the Clansman
came round into the bay and drew up to the linkspan stern-in. We returned to
the car as the crew tied the ship alongside (and by the way, after a five
hour crossing that car was absolutely freezing!)
We were let off and went up onto what passes for the main
road on Barra. There were about a dozen or so cars waiting to go back out on
the Clansman and these began loading as we made our way round to some random
driveway next to a couple of houses. From there we went out into the rain
and tried to get photos of the ship leaving.
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Clansman beginning her 5 hour journey back to Oban
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After the Clansman left Castlebay we made our own way out
towards the B&B for tonight's accommodation. Tomorrow will see us
leaving Barra by the back door and heading north-east via Eriskay, South
Uist and Benbecula before crossing onto North Uist for the sailing via Skye
to Harris and finally ending up on Lewis about this time tomorrow evening
(2000).
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