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THE SoC GRAND TOUR - Day 7
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It was the early hours before the laptop was shut down last night! (Well,
with six days of photos to get through it was bound to take some time wasn't
it...) Anyway, another night of sleep deprivation and the alarm clock on
Dave's mobile was under severe risk of being launched across the room at
high velocity when it went off this morning.
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Into the car and off to the ferry again. We followed our route in last night
and went up to Gourock to catch the Juno over to Dunoon. With it being a
Sunday the first sailing wasn't until 0820. We duly got to the pier about
five minutes prior, had the tickets checked again and went down the linkspan
once more. There were quite a few cars on this morning - although admittedly
the majority were crew cars, ready for the changeover with Saturn in 25
minutes time.
The sun was intensely bright again this morning and this was a very good
sign for the rest of the day. As we crossed the Upper Firth the Saturn came
into view further down. At first she appeared not to be moving, but as we
approached Dunoon pier she came up and followed us in from behind, lying off
until the linkspan was vacated.
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Another bright morning on the Clyde
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Saturn coming up for changeover
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Changeover at Dunoon
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Dave took the car off and parked up in the nearby car park
while Alan went down the passenger gangway and went onto the nearby new
linkspan (installed in spring and still not used or a regular
service) to watch the changeover from end-on. From this viewpoint he was
able to get pictures of the two streakers together at Dunoon - Juno
preparing to leave for Rothesay and Saturn dressed overall to take up Dunoon
service for the next week.
No sooner was the older ship off the berth and the Saturn
was right in there, taking her place on the Gourock roster. Al made his way
off the new structure and tried to find where Dave had parked the car -
unsuccessfully! One phone call later and the two met up, ready to go to
Portavadie and the Isle of Cumbrae.
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Isle of Cumbrae on an incoming tide
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The journey over to Portavadie normally takes an hour or so
but, despite it being relatively early for most people on a Sunday morning,
the world and his wife seemed to be out and about in slow cars. As a result
we were delayed considerably on the single track road round the head of Loch
Striven to the Colintraive road. We eventually got to Portavadie as the Isle
of Cumbrae was making her way across Loch Fyne to Tarbert, at about 1000.
With three quarters of an hour to kill Al took the opportunity to clear his
memory card and download its contents onto the laptop.
As the Isle of Cumbrae approached from Tarbert at 1040 we
assumed our positions, Dave on the slipway and Al on the beach (almost
getting wet feet at the same time)
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The half dozen or so cars came off the Tarbert ferry and the
crew called Dave forwards and he made his way down the slipway and onto the
car deck. As the other traffic followed suit Al made his way rather rapidly
down and onto the ramp, seconds before it was raised and we set sail for
Kintyre.
As we left the slipway and crossed to the entrance of the
bay we left the shelter of the headland and passed out into Loch Fyne,
exposed to a cool breeze - actually it was a b****y cold breeze when the
wind speed picked up!
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Portavadie Bay from the ferry
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Isle of Cumbrae sitting at Tarbert
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Al poses for the camera
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Tarbert gradually got closer and closer and shortly after
1110 this morning we disembarked in the village that only a few days ago
left Al with that empty feeling in the stomach - needless to say we didn't
give that slow cafe a second chance. Instead we split up once more, with Al
staying around the slipway for photos and Dave heading off down towards the
main pier in the mouth of East Loch Tarbert.
The Isle of Cumbrae was on Kintyre for only three or four
minutes before setting off back to the eastern side of Loch Fyne once more.
As she headed off out, we made our way down to Tayinloan, as we did last
Monday.
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This morning's drive down Kintyre to Tayinloan was far
quicker than that of the other day - no roadworks this time and certainly no
sheep blocking the road! We made it to Tayinloan as Loch Ranza arrived on
the mainland and were allowed to board with no delay. We took the 1200
sailing over to Gigha in the baking sun with not a cloud to be seen. About
half way across one of the hatches was opened and a crew member disappeared
down into the engine room below the car deck. Seconds later we were deafened
by the sounds of a generator and pump starting up. A steady trickle of water
appeared from an outlet and discharged into the crystal clear Sound of Gigha.
Some passengers joked amongst themselves that the ferry was taking on water
and this was an attempt to pump it out...
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1220 saw us driving off the Loch Ranza on Gigha again. We
went round to the other side of the bay and made use of the jetty that stuck
out from a nearby cafe. The ship set off shortly afterwards, passing a yacht
which must surely be a contender for the 'daftest name' award - the
Flapjack.
Our reason for returning to this sleepy little island was
the Hebridean Isles and the Isle of Arran, both of which were due to pass
the northern end of the isle near the old pier in the next couple of hours.
We had missed them passing a few days ago and decided that since the weather
was, to say the least nice, we decided to come back for a second attempt. As
we left the ferry to make its way slowly back over to the mainland there was
still half an hour before the Hebridean Isles was due to leave Kennacraig -
so there was plenty of time to allow for a bit of through-the-stomach
thinking and we pulled in at this little burger van thing. From the looks of
it when we got there it was seldom used except by locals, and the kids of
the bloke who runs it. Al had what he claimed was a very tasty burger and
chips while Dave chanced a chicken burger, which tasted like anything but
chicken, and gave up on food after one bite having realised that hunger
would be preferable.
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Loch Ranza...
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...and the Flapjack
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Having 'fed' himself and then downed a whole chilled bottle
of Pepsi, Dave started the car and, with Alan still munching we made our way
north to the old pier. The Hebridean Isles was visible in the distance. She
was nearing the mouth of West Loch Tarbert on her way down to Port Ellen. We
dumped the car just at the end of the road and wandered off up to the
remains of the old steamer pier, taking up position on the rocks over to the
left.
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Hebridean Isles seen from Gigha...
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...with the Paps of Jura in the distance
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Hebridean Isles did not take long to reach us where we were.
She passed very close to Gigha as her course would take her on a south-westerley
course in the general direction of Port Ellen. With her passing so close to
us, we got some very clear pictures, first with the northern Kintyre hills,
then with an islet in the foreground and finally with the famous Paps of
Jura in the distance.
Once Hebridean Isles was out of sight one of us (who shall
remain nameless) suggested it might be a good idea to wander up over to
those rocks on the next headland in time to see the Isle of Arran come round
on her way in towards Kennacraig.
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Isle of Arran making her way to Kintyre
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Isle of Arran seen from Gigha
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About half way along to the headland, scrambling over rough
and loose rocks and somehow managing to avoid spraining any ankles, we
realised the tide was actually coming in and so Dave followed Al up onto the
rock higher up and we continued scrambling towards our target. The climbing
up wasn't so bad but Dave was getting concerned that descending might cause
problems and was looking rather dangerous. He made the decision to turn back
for where we were before, but as he did so, Al spotted the Isle of Arran now
a hell of a lot closer than she was when we last saw her (whilst driving up
from the main ferry pier). Oh what the hell... Dave scrambled up onto the
top of the rocks and took out the camera.
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Isle of Arran ploughed her way across the horizon and into
the mouth of the West Loch. Al and Dave then made the perilous scramble back
down to the shoreline and along back to the car. Dave by this time was
boiling hot and in dire need of liquid refreshment - and so was his car's
windscreen washer bottle (not to mention the paintwork)
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Dave's car makes a plea!
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We returned south down to the ferry terminal and stopped off
via the post office to get more drinks. The Loch Ranza crawled her way
across from Tayinloan once more and we decided to have a bit of fun at poor
Steve's expense, with the aid of a couple of much-needed ice creams. A
phone picture of an ice cream and the words 'mmmm ice cream on Gigha, wish
you were here?' in a multimedia message was soon being sent over the
airwaves to the boss's phone where we believe he was sunning himself on he
roof of his bus depot in Newcastle...say no more!
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Another 20 minutes on the Loch Ranza and we were back on the
mainland. Our journey back to Al's place began at this point and followed
the exact route we took to get to Tayinloan this morning but with one
additional stop at Kennacraig where the Isle of Arran lay idle, waiting for
her evening run to Port Ellen. Ten minutes there and we returned to Tarbert
where there was nearly an hour to wait for the Isle of Cumbrae's 1715
crossing.
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Isle of Arran idle at Kennacraig
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While we waited in the oven (the car) for the ferry to
return it became clear that on a Sunday there is nothing for the local kids
and teens to do... Two specimens of said local inhabitants were occupying
the shelter just opposite the slipway. Whether they were just high on life
and the summer sun, or whether it was something more sinister and somewhat
less than legal was unclear but the fact that one seemed to be the punchbag
for the other suggested the latter was more likely. At times they turned
their attentions to the traffic queue and took it in turns to hurl obnoxious
comments at the intending passengers.
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Isle of Cumbrae returning to Tarbert
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This time crossing Loch Fyne the cool wind of this morning
was none existent. We returned to Dunoon via the road we came along earlier;
that around the head of Loch Striven and on towards Sandbank and Hunters
Quay. Dave would have gone via the Colintraive ferry to Rothesay and across
to Wemyss Bay, but Al had been dropping heavy hints about catching Saturn
from Dunoon instead. Sadly for him, as we came round the esplanade and into
the marshalling area, an old woman in a Calmac hi-viz came over and
attempted to take our rover tickets off us, despite them being valid for
another day yet - clearly this rude individual didn't know how to do her
job. (She even tried to call traffic forward for boarding while the ferry
was still discharging and the red traffic light was showing!)
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Saturn arriving from Gourock
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Saturn alongside at Dunoon
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Alan at this point did his usual trick, and went on as a
passenger via the gangway while Dave played the part of the captured subject
for the camera which was peering down from the top deck. Again, Dave parked
up and went off upstairs to take in the breeze generated as the ferry moved
off on the 20 minute crossing to Calmac HQ. The crossing was uneventful and
after we disembarked in Gourock, we made for the car park on the seafront
and pulled up to wait for the ferry to depart once more on her next sailing.
Following her passing by and heading off to Dunoon once again, we returned
to Al's house as the base for tonight and ready for tomorrow.
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Saturn off Gourock seafront...
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...and silhouetted in the evening light
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