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SoC CREW; Trip Diaries
Main SoC Crew Activities Diary - May 2006
May Trip Round the Isles - Day 2
My alarm woke me after what felt like mere minutes sleep. But no, I had been out for the count for nearly 7 hours so I wasn’t doing too badly this morning. I left the B&B as quietly as possible so as not to wake any of the other inhabitants and loaded the car once again. I had to be at Kennacraig for around 0630 for check-in although I was a few minutes late, not that anyone batted an eyelid. Hebridean Isles was nowhere to be seen. She was in fact inbound from Port Ellen and was somewhere out there in the mist and haze.

The ferry duly arrived and prepared for the 0700 to Islay. I did my usual trick of heading straight to the cafeteria, following my nose in search of food. Most of the passenger complement seemed to do the same and I was lucky to get a seat!

This particular route to Islay is the longer of the two and on a clear day I am told you can see right down to Rathlin in the south, but alas it was rather murky once we got out past Gigha and indeed I could only just make out the southern coast of Islay. But the water was flat calm for the most part and indeed the wind didn’t really get up until we made our turn into Port Ellen bay.

I had arranged to meet up with SoC’s newest recruit this morning. Sure enough, as I drove off the Hebridean Isles there was Elliott standing on the pier. I pulled over and he jumped in and we headed off round the bay to a viewpoint I had been told about. I needed the directions – I’ve only ever been into Port Ellen once before today, and that was in the pitch black one night after a late sailing from Oban. It was a few minutes drive round the head of the bay and then a brisk walk up through the heather and amongst the rocks to get to a point known as The Ard, but from there a great view over to the pier is possible. There was a coaster in the grain berth on the nearside of the pier, which is a shame as according to Elliott the ferry would normally berth on the near side in a strong wind like this morning…

Day 2 - 8th May 2006
Hebridean Isles arriving from Port Ellen

Day 2 - 8th May 2006
Hebridean Isles loading for Kennacraig

We stood there waiting for the departure and talking about bits and pieces to do with the website, and the quiz that is currently running, although I wasn’t giving out any answers (nice try Elliott!) The Hebridean Isles left on time, bound for Kennacraig and Elliott went on his way. I now had five hours or so to explore Islay.

I left Port Ellen and headed down along the southern coast, past some of the numerous distilleries. I could just make out the ship as she passed along the coastline although it was very hazy and she was very faint. It has to be said that the further you go along the south coast of Islay, the worse the road gets. It started off ok and then deteriorated into single track and then the potholes started! At this point, and with Hebridean Isles well out of sight, I turned round and headed back to Port Ellen and the Co-op.

Day 2 - 8th May 2006
The ferry heading out of Port Ellen...
Day 2 - 8th May 2006
...and off to Kennacraig
It was bright and sunny back in the port, but very windy as well. I stocked up on drinks for the rest of the day and returned to the ferry terminal for some info on where is best to see whilst on a day trip to the island. Graham and Margaret in the office were most helpful – I also picked up some useful tips of possible viewpoints around Ports Ellen and Askaig – cheers guys!

Day 2 - 8th May 2006
A beach somewhere on Islay

Day 2 - 8th May 2006
Eilean Dhuira in the swell

During my few short hours on Islay I was able to get a good feel for the island. It is hilly in places but is on the whole a flat island compared to neighbouring Jura. I was taking a walk on a rather beautiful beach somewhere in the north west of Islay (I think I was north west anyway) when I looked at the time and realised I had less than an hour until the ferry back was due to sail. I now had to find my way to back to the main road and Port Askaig.

Fortunately the road was quiet and I dropped down into Port Askaig in time for check-in. I went down onto the pier with the camera. There was a strong breeze but with the sun it was very warm and pleasant. I assumed I’d see the ship in plenty of time as she entered the Sound of Islay in the distance; well I probably would have done had I been a bit earlier, but I was surprised when Hebridean Isles came around the headland no more than 5 minutes away! At this point the Jura ferry, Eilean Duira was battling her way over from Feolin and encountering some impressive waves in the process. The two ships came alongside their respective berths and unloading commenced.  It was a fairly busy sailing so I made sure I bagged myself a spot in the sun out on deck.

Day 2 - 8th May 2006
Hebridean Isles approaching Port Askaig
Day 2 - 8th May 2006
Closer view
The ferry sailed at 1530 and I sat there in the sun on the starboard deck. I only went inside for quick snack and a drink before going outside once again. Unfortunately I fell asleep whilst out on deck and only awoke as we made one of the turns in West Loch Tarbert. The wind made it feel cooler than it actually was – when I woke up I could feel my face glowing. (In fact the shower this evening was rather painful) We were soon rapidly approaching Kennacraig and it looked like we were going bow-in as normal, when all of a sudden the ship veered to port and we sailed past the terminal. 
As we were called down to the car deck I could feel the ship swinging round to starboard. Due to the wind the ferry was going stern-in at the old berth.

Unloading was a slow process – of course we were all facing the bow and the trucks especially, found reversing off difficult. Just to be a smart-arse, I cheated and did a 3 point turn, driving off forwards. I wanted to head off down the Kilberry road to try and find a viewpoint. Fortunately the stern loading meant that departure would be delayed and this of course allowed me time to find somewhere on the north side of the loch to set up.

Day 2 - 8th May 2006
Hebridean Isles stern-in at Kennacraig

Day 2 - 8th May 2006
Leaving the mainland again...

Day 2 - 8th May 2006
...and passing my muddy viewpoint

I ended up parking on a verge and trampling down to the shore (getting covered in mud in the process) but with the sun behind me the light was perfect. The ferry left about 15 minutes late and certainly wasn’t hanging around. Within five minutes she was past and well on her way to Port Askaig for the night. My next stop was Oban and the fish and chip shop and then a meal in the car overlooking the Sound of Kerrera. In the fading light I passed through Oban and made my way to where I am now – Strumhor B&B. Time for an early night now (10pm!)

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