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Diary - May 2006 |
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May Trip Round the Isles - Day 2 |
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My
alarm woke me after what felt like mere minutes sleep. But no, I had been
out for the count for nearly 7 hours so I wasn’t doing too badly this
morning. I left the B&B as quietly as possible so as not to wake any of
the other inhabitants and loaded the car once again. I had to be at
Kennacraig for around 0630 for check-in although I was a few minutes late,
not that anyone batted an eyelid. Hebridean Isles was nowhere to be seen.
She was in fact inbound from Port Ellen and was somewhere out there in the
mist and haze.
The
ferry duly arrived and prepared for the 0700 to Islay. I did my usual trick
of heading straight to the cafeteria, following my nose in search of food.
Most of the passenger complement seemed to do the same and I was lucky to
get a seat!
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This
particular route to Islay is the longer of the two and on a clear day I am
told you can see right down to Rathlin in the south, but alas it was
rather murky once we got out past Gigha and indeed I could only just make
out the southern coast of Islay. But the water was flat calm for the most
part and indeed the wind didn’t really get up until we made our turn
into Port Ellen bay.
I
had arranged to meet up with SoC’s newest recruit this morning. Sure
enough, as I drove off the Hebridean Isles there was Elliott standing on
the pier. I pulled over and he jumped in and we headed off round the bay
to a viewpoint I had been told about. I needed the directions – I’ve
only ever been into Port Ellen once before today, and that was in the
pitch black one night after a late sailing from Oban. It was a few minutes
drive round the head of the bay and then a brisk walk up through the
heather and amongst the rocks to get to a point known as The Ard, but from
there a great view over to the pier is possible. There was a coaster in
the grain berth on the nearside of the pier, which is a shame as according
to Elliott the ferry would normally berth on the near side in a strong
wind like this morning… |

Hebridean Isles arriving from Port Ellen

Hebridean Isles loading for Kennacraig
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We
stood there waiting for the departure and talking about bits and pieces to
do with the website, and the quiz that is currently running, although I
wasn’t giving out any answers (nice try Elliott!) The Hebridean Isles
left on time, bound for Kennacraig and Elliott went on his way. I now had
five hours or so to explore Islay.
I
left Port Ellen and headed down along the southern coast, past some of the
numerous distilleries. I could just make out the ship as she passed along
the coastline although it was very hazy and she was very faint. It has to
be said that the further you go along the south coast of Islay, the worse
the road gets. It started off ok and then deteriorated into single track
and then the potholes started! At this point, and with Hebridean Isles
well out of sight, I turned round and headed back to Port Ellen and the
Co-op. |

The ferry heading out of Port Ellen... |

...and off to Kennacraig |
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It
was bright and sunny back in the port, but very windy as well. I stocked
up on drinks for the rest of the day and returned to the ferry terminal
for some info on where is best to see whilst on a day trip to the island.
Graham and Margaret in the office were most helpful – I also picked up
some useful tips of possible viewpoints around Ports Ellen and Askaig –
cheers guys! |
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A beach somewhere on Islay

Eilean Dhuira in the swell
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During
my few short hours on Islay I was able to get a good feel for the island.
It is hilly in places but is on the whole a flat island compared to
neighbouring Jura. I was taking a walk on a rather beautiful beach
somewhere in the north west of Islay (I think I was north west anyway)
when I looked at the time and realised I had less than an hour until the
ferry back was due to sail. I now had to find my way to back to the main
road and Port Askaig.
Fortunately
the road was quiet and I dropped down into Port Askaig in time for
check-in. I went down onto the pier with the camera. There was a strong
breeze but with the sun it was very warm and pleasant. I assumed I’d see
the ship in plenty of time as she entered the Sound of Islay in the
distance; well I probably would have done had I been a bit earlier, but I
was surprised when Hebridean Isles came around the headland no more than 5
minutes away! At this point the Jura ferry, Eilean Duira was battling her
way over from Feolin and encountering some impressive waves in the
process. The two ships came alongside their respective berths and
unloading commenced. It was a
fairly busy sailing so I made sure I bagged myself a spot in the sun out
on deck. |

Hebridean Isles approaching Port Askaig |

Closer view |
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The
ferry sailed at 1530 and I sat there in the sun on the starboard deck. I
only went inside for quick snack and a drink before going outside once
again. Unfortunately I fell asleep whilst out on deck and only awoke as we
made one of the turns in West Loch Tarbert. The wind made it feel cooler
than it actually was – when I woke up I could feel my face glowing. (In
fact the shower this evening was rather painful) We were soon rapidly
approaching Kennacraig and it looked like we were going bow-in as normal,
when all of a sudden the ship veered to port and we sailed past the
terminal. |
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As
we were called down to the car deck I could feel the ship swinging round
to starboard. Due to the wind the ferry was going stern-in at the old
berth.
Unloading
was a slow process – of course we were all facing the bow and the trucks
especially, found reversing off difficult. Just to be a smart-arse, I
cheated and did a 3 point turn, driving off forwards. I wanted to head off
down the Kilberry road to try and find a viewpoint. Fortunately the stern
loading meant that departure would be delayed and this of course allowed
me time to find somewhere on the north side of the loch to set up. |

Hebridean Isles stern-in at Kennacraig
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Leaving the mainland again...
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...and passing my muddy viewpoint
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I
ended up parking on a verge and trampling down to the shore (getting
covered in mud in the process) but with the sun behind me the light was
perfect. The ferry left about 15 minutes late and certainly wasn’t
hanging around. Within five minutes she was past and well on her way to
Port Askaig for the night. My next stop was Oban and the fish and chip
shop and then a meal in the car overlooking the Sound of Kerrera. In the
fading light I passed through Oban and made my way to where I am now –
Strumhor B&B. Time for an early night now (10pm!)
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